REVIEW · EDINBURGH
Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues!
Edinburgh’s Old Town is full of grand sights, but this walk is at its best when it turns down a side street or stops at a place most people pass without a thought. You’ll follow stories of royals, murderers, thieves, and condemned prisoners, from Greyfriars Kirkyard to the old Tolbooth Prison and the University of Edinburgh.
I like the personal pace, since your guide can adjust the walk to your interests and energy. I also like the use of old photographs and archive images, which help you picture streets that have changed beyond recognition. The main thing to consider is the subject matter: executions, poverty, murder, and grim prison stories are central to the tour, so this is not a light sightseeing stroll.
Key points to know before you book
- Robert gives the walk a personal touch: He is described as a lifelong Edinburgh resident, teacher, storyteller, and, on some tours, the tall guide in a kilt.
- Greyfriars starts the story: You’ll hear competing versions of the tale of Greyfriars Bobby before moving into Edinburgh’s darker past.
- The Royal Mile gets more than a quick look: Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Deacon William Brodie, St Giles, the Mercat Cross, and an old close all feature.
- The route covers overlooked ground: The Cowgate and University of Edinburgh receive attention that many standard Old Town walks skip.
- Archive images make the past easier to picture: Your guide uses photographs and sometimes props to show how Edinburgh once looked.
- The price buys privacy, not entry tickets: The listed cost is $117.84 for a group of up to one person, with a two-hour private walk and local guide included.
A two-hour walk through Edinburgh’s darker stories

This is a history walk with a clear route, but it does not feel like a march from one famous monument to the next. The appeal is the way the stops connect Edinburgh’s public places with the people who lived, worked, suffered, schemed, and sometimes died there.
Your starting point is inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, close to the heart of the Old Town. From there, the route moves through Candlemaker Row, the Grassmarket, the Royal Mile, Cowgate, and parts of the University of Edinburgh before finishing on South Bridge.
The walk lasts about two hours. That is enough time for a solid introduction to Old Town stories without turning the day into an exhausting full-day tour. You should still expect uneven streets, slopes, and regular walking. A moderate level of fitness is advised.
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Greyfriars Kirkyard and the many versions of Bobby’s tale
Greyfriars Kirkyard is a strong place to begin. The graveyard has the atmosphere you expect from old Edinburgh: stone memorials, narrow streets nearby, and a sense that the city’s past is never far below the surface.
The first stop lasts about 15 minutes. You’ll hear about Greyfriars Bobby, the small dog associated with one of Edinburgh’s best-known local stories. The guide presents several versions of what happened and lets you decide how much of the tale you accept.
That approach is useful. Instead of treating a famous story as a fixed fact, the tour gives you room to think about how local legends grow. You also get an early example of the guide’s style: history mixed with humor, questions, and a little healthy doubt.
The meeting point is Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, at Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ. It is worth arriving with a little time to spare, since finding the correct gate in the Old Town can take longer than expected if you are unfamiliar with the lanes.
Grassmarket, Candlemaker Row, and a wedding with consequences
From Greyfriars, the walk heads toward Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket. This portion takes about 25 minutes and looks at one of Scotland’s significant weddings and the effect it had on Edinburgh.
The guide follows the route of the pre-wedding party, using the streets themselves to make the story easier to follow. This is one of the tour’s strengths. You are not simply told that an event happened in Edinburgh. You are shown how people would have moved through the city and how the surrounding streets shaped the occasion.
The Grassmarket is also a useful place to understand the contrast between Edinburgh’s grand public image and its rougher past. Today, it is easy to focus on restaurants, shops, and the view toward Edinburgh Castle. The tour shifts your attention to the people and events that once gave this area a much harsher reputation.
You’ll also see Edinburgh Castle from its hilltop position during the walk. The castle is not the main attraction here, and this experience does not replace a castle visit. Still, the view helps put the Old Town stories into a wider setting.
The Royal Mile: Mary, Brodie, St Giles, and the Mercat Cross
The longest section lasts about 40 minutes and takes in several locations along the Royal Mile. This is the core of the tour, with a strong mix of royal history, crime, religion, politics, and local scandal.
You’ll visit places linked to Mary, Queen of Scots, including the area where she spent part of her childhood. The focus is not simply on dates and names. The guide uses the places around you to explain how royal life touched ordinary streets and buildings.
A small courtyard with a royal connection is another stop. It offers the kind of detail that can disappear if you only walk the Royal Mile from one end to the other. You might pass through without noticing it, while a local guide can explain why the space matters.
The story of Deacon William Brodie adds a different tone. Brodie was a respected Edinburgh figure with a secret life, and his hanging became part of the city’s criminal folklore. The tale works especially well on foot because the city’s respectable public face and its less respectable private dealings are never far apart.
The tour also gives St Giles a brief history before moving to the old Mercat Cross. St Giles is one of the Old Town’s major landmarks, but a short account of its past can help you understand why the building carries such weight in Edinburgh.
The Mercat Cross is tied to the story of Prince Charles Edward Stewart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. This stop connects the physical center of the old city with the political drama of the Jacobite cause.
The Royal Mile section finishes with an atmospheric Old Town close. The description promises a memorable story here, and the setting matters as much as the facts. Old closes are narrow, enclosed passages that show how compact and layered Edinburgh once was. You should not expect a grand monument. The reward is a stronger sense of how people moved through the city away from its main thoroughfare.
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The darker side of Edinburgh’s past
The tour includes three former execution sites and the location of the old Tolbooth Prison. These stories give the walk its title and its edge. Edinburgh’s past was not only royal processions and literary figures. Public punishment and prison life were part of the city’s daily reality.
The old Tolbooth site is connected with one of Scotland’s most notorious assassinations. The story adds a political and criminal thread to the tour, while the former execution spots show how punishment once occupied visible places in the city.
This material is presented as history, but you should know the tone can be grim. If you prefer architecture, cafés, and scenic viewpoints, parts of this walk may feel heavy. If you want to understand how people in earlier Edinburgh lived under harsh laws and public scrutiny, these stops add real depth.
The guide also brings in famous Scottish figures such as Robert Burns. That helps keep the walk from becoming a single parade of crime stories. Royal history, poetry, political conflict, local legend, and violence all share the same few streets.
Cowgate and the life of the Victorian poor
The Cowgate receives about 10 minutes, but its place on the route matters. It is often left out of quick Old Town walks, even though it helps explain the social divide within Edinburgh.
Here, you’ll look at life among the Victorian poor. The stop is brief, so it will not provide a full study of housing or public health. It does, however, give you a useful counterpoint to the royal and civic stories on the Royal Mile.
For me, this is the sort of stop that makes a city walk more honest. Edinburgh’s grand buildings can suggest a polished, unified past. The Cowgate reminds you that wealth, hardship, status, and overcrowding existed side by side.
Because this part is short, listen for the main ideas rather than expecting a long lecture. The value comes from placing the earlier stories in a wider social setting.
Burke, Hare, and the University of Edinburgh
The final 30 minutes focus on two places connected with the University of Edinburgh. This is where the tour turns to Burke and Hare, the infamous Irish murderers whose crimes became linked to the demand for bodies for anatomical study.
You’ll hear how the pair operated, why they were able to kill so many people, and what eventually happened to them. The story is disturbing, but it also raises questions about medicine, poverty, trust, and the value placed on different lives.
The University setting makes the story especially powerful. Edinburgh was known for learning and medical study, yet the path toward scientific progress could involve people who had little protection. The tour does not present the university only as an impressive institution. It also looks at the uncomfortable choices and conditions surrounding its past.
Your guide may also draw attention to the traditional Highland clothing he is wearing. If Robert leads your tour, this can become a light moment in a section that is otherwise dark. His use of humor is one reason the experience does not become relentlessly bleak.
The final stop is near Old College, or inside it if access is available. The building looks impressive today, but the story attached to it is more explosive, literally. I would not book this walk expecting guaranteed interior access, since entry depends on whether the space is open to the group. The outdoor stop remains part of the route.
Robert’s guiding style and the value of a private walk
The guide makes a major difference here. Robert is described as a lifelong Edinburgh citizen and a teacher by trade, which helps explain the clear storytelling style. He uses archive images, old photographs, and sometimes props to give shape to places that have changed.
The most useful feature is the ability to adjust the walk. If you want more detail about royal history, local characters, architecture, or Scottish food, you can ask. If the pace feels too quick, the guide can slow down. Families and solo visitors can also ask questions without holding up a larger group.
Robert’s humor is another part of the experience. The stories include executions and murder, so a dry or overly solemn presentation could become tiring. A personable guide can give you a pause between the darker subjects.
If Robert is important to your plans, request him when booking, but keep in mind that the supplied information does not promise a particular guide for every departure. The experience provider is Historic Edinburgh Tours.
Is $117.84 good value for a private tour?
The listed price is $117.84 per group of up to one person. That wording makes this a solo private experience at the stated capacity, rather than a normal small-group booking. Since only your group participates, you are paying for personal attention and flexibility rather than for admission to paid attractions.
The stops themselves are listed as free, and the included service is the local guide. You are not paying for Edinburgh Castle entry, museum admission, food, or transport. That keeps the value question simple: the price makes sense if you want a focused introduction with a guide who can tailor the pace and answer your questions.
For a solo visitor, the cost is higher than a standard public walking tour. It may still be worthwhile if you want one-on-one attention, have limited time, or prefer not to follow a fixed group. If you mainly want a cheap overview of the Royal Mile, a private tour may be more than you need.
The tour is offered in English and uses a mobile ticket. The booking platform gives confirmation at booking. Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before the start time, while changes or cancellations inside that window are not refunded. The experience requires good weather, so poor conditions can lead to a different date or a full refund.
Who should book this Edinburgh walk?
I would choose this for a first visit when you want context before exploring the Old Town alone. The route gives you several useful reference points, including Greyfriars, the Grassmarket, the Royal Mile, the Cowgate, and Old College.
It also suits anyone who likes local stories more than a list of dates. You’ll hear about Greyfriars Bobby, Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Robert Burns, Deacon Brodie, Burke and Hare, and the Tolbooth. The range is wide, but the focus stays on the streets beneath your feet.
Families can enjoy the humor and props, though parents should decide if the murder and execution material suits their children. History fans will appreciate the mix of royal drama, social history, crime, and university life.
You should bring comfortable shoes and prepare for Edinburgh’s changing weather. Service animals are allowed, and the route is near public transportation. A moderate level of fitness is needed, and the Old Town’s slopes and paving may be tiring for some walkers.
Should you book the Private Old Edinburgh Tour?
Book it if you want a personal, story-led introduction to Edinburgh’s Old Town, especially one that goes beyond the castle and the main Royal Mile sights. The flexible pace, old images, and attention to Cowgate and university history give the walk more substance than a simple landmark checklist.
I would skip it if you want a gentle scenic walk with little discussion of crime, death, or poverty, or if you are looking for entry to major paid attractions. For a solo visitor who values conversation and local perspective, the private format and Robert’s engaging style make the price easier to justify.
FAQ
How long does the Private Old Edinburgh Tour last?
The tour lasts approximately two hours.
Where does the tour start?
It starts just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ, UK.
Where does the tour finish?
The walk usually ends on South Bridge, about ten minutes from the starting point at Greyfriars.
Is this a private tour?
Yes. Only your group participates. The stated price is $117.84 per group of up to one person.
What language is the tour offered in?
The tour is offered in English.
What happens if the weather is poor?
The experience requires good weather. If it is canceled because of poor weather, you will be offered a different date or a full refund. You can also cancel up to 24 hours before the start time for a full refund.
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